Why The Perfect Patek Philippe Nautilus Replica Is King: A Collector Weighs In

An introduction by editor-in-chief Elizabeth Doerr: At Quill & Pad we are often contacted by readers. Most are requests for information, but some lead to an interesting exchange of opinions. A recent message from Perry Heim had much to do with his thoughts on one of today’s blue-chip watches: the Swiss fake Patek Philippe Nautilus.

He has organized his thoughts well, which I believe makes for a great conversation starter.

Perry Heim writes:

I’ve had the idea for this piece in mind for quite some time now, but as always when I think of writing something I inevitably ask myself, “What’s the point?”

Well, after reading article after article discussing the virtues of Patek Philippe’s Nautilus – such articles seem to be popping up exponentially – it became clear to me that none state a self-evident truth that appears obvious to me. So I decided to give it a go.

Here is what I find so appealing about the best replica Patek Philippe Nautilus Reference 5711.

Patek Philippe Nautilus Reference 5711A (photograph courtesy GaryG)
Patek Philippe Nautilus Reference 5711A (photograph courtesy GaryG)
Water resistance and a thin case

What I find most remarkable about the design of the Patek Philippe Nautilus Reference 5711 is that it offers 120 meters of water resistance within a case merely 8.3 mm high. You may ask, “What of it?”

In my humble opinion, the two most important factors when evaluating a luxury sports watch are elegance (hence, luxury) and durability (hence, sports). And while the following might err on the side of reductionism, I believe these two can be quantified quite easily using just two parameters: water resistance as a signifier of durability and case thickness as a measure of elegance.

Granted, there is more to luxury than elegance, and there is more to elegance than a thin case (the same going, of course, for sports, durability, and water resistance), so some may disagree with the significance of these two.

I do have more criteria. Being a watch enthusiast for several years, I have developed a specific ideal for my everyday watch. You know the watch I’m talking about: the beach-to-boardroom-go-anywhere do-anything kind of watch.

My ideal everyday watch has to be mechanical (automatic or manual winding, both fine by me) with an exhibition case back, some degree of luminescence, no thicker than 10 mm, and with a water resistance equal to or greater than 10 atm (100 m). As we shall see, finding the conjuncture of these last two is challenging within the confines of a single watch.

Tom Holland at the Wimbledon 2018 men’s finals wearing a Patek Philippe Nautilus Reference 5167 (photo courtesy Ralph Lauren)
Tom Holland at the Wimbledon 2018 men’s finals wearing a Patek Philippe Nautilus Reference 5167 (photo courtesy Ralph Lauren)
Not-so-competitive landscape

I will now demonstrate that this is a feat unmatched by any other watch, save Patek Philippe’s own 5167 Aquanaut, which manages to fit the same movement in an 8.1 mm thick case while retaining said water resistance. Does this mean the 5167 is superlative to the 5711? Of course not; originality, design, and heritage are but a few of the additional factors at play here.

Putting aside these other aspects by which we are to judge a timepiece, and regardless of which one you prefer, Patek Philippe, at least of the holy trinity – an informal WIS grouping comprising Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Vacheron Constantin – appears to be alone in achieving this challenging combination of demands.

Patek Philippe Reference 5711-1A Nautilus (photo courtesy Tim Mosso)
Patek Philippe Reference 5711-1A Nautilus (photo courtesy Tim Mosso)
What the other two holy trinity brands and a few select others offer

The water resistance of Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oaks are rated to a mere 50 m, with a screw-down crown on Reference 15202 and without one on the three-handed variants.

Many debates have arisen over the interpretation of water-resistance ratings, and while some claim that 50 meters with a screw-down crown is sufficient for swimming, I am reluctant to submerge any luxury watch with less than 100 m water resistance.

In any case, the models with a screw-down crown are about a centimeter thick. And while the 15202 is a delightful 8.1 mm thick, no one would advise you get it too wet.

And the Royal Oak Offshores? Sure, they’re water resistant. But whether Chronograph or Diver, they have all the thinness and finesse of a Big Mac.

Vacheron Constantin’s second-generation time-only Overseas is a fine candidate; with a depth rating of 150 meters and a reasonable case thickness of only 9.7 mm, my main gripe was its lack of an exhibition case back (I also felt the hands were a tad too short).

Vacheron Constantin added just such a case back to the third generation of the Overseas in 2016 – all the better to show off the new in-house 5100 caliber – but at the expense of adding nearly 2 mm to the case height. At more than 11 mm thick, it doesn’t appear at all sleek.

What about the white gold ultra-thin Overseas Perpetual Calendar? Oh, if ever there was a delicious watch to behold. Sadly, it achieves its clean design by doing away with a date window and second hand, and its 7.5 mm thin profile is accomplished at the expense of water resistance, down from 150 to 50 meters.

The A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus, Breguet Marine, and Glashütte Original Seventies all exceed 11 mm in height as is prone to happen with a big date complication (interesting enough, the new Marine did away with the big date but didn’t get any thinner).

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s sports watches tend to have a solid case back and are usually far from thin, as is the case, of course, with Rolex (surely to be expected with a base movement 6 mm in height). Omega’s current offerings are housed in cases with sapphire crystal case backs, but I find the Co-Axial escapements tend to render the timepieces with the dimensions of a small hockey puck.

Steel Cases Fake Watches
Other contenders

A couple of unusual suspects come to mind. Piaget’s Polo S and Girard-Perregaux’s Laureato are both rated to 100 meters and come in at just under a centimeter in height. Prima facia this sounds good but, alas, these fine timepieces only deliver further proof that numbers aren’t everything. In addition to being among those who find the designs of these pieces derivative, they just don’t feel all that thin to me.

Other noteworthy models, albeit discontinued, are Omega’s Constellation Double Eagle with the 2500 caliber. It’s still (or, rather, already) Co-Axial, you get a sapphire crystal case back and 100 m of water resistance, but unlike Omega’s current offerings it comes in under 10 mm in height.

Another is Blancpain’s Leman Aqualung (the limited edition of 1999 pieces, not the one with the grand date, mind you), quite fetching in my opinion.

Lastly, a watch I personally own and highly recommend if you can find one: the Nomos Tangente Sport Datum 531. Similar to the recent Hodinkee limited edition, the 531 is powered by Nomos Glashütte’s Beta caliber so it does have a date window in addition to an exhibition case back. It’s rated to 100 m without a screw-down crown (good thing, too, as it’s a manual wind) and is roughly 8 mm thick (roughly because Nomos claims a thickness of 7.9 mm with the exhibition case back, whereas my own Vernier caliper yielded a result closer to 8.1 mm.)

While it might have beat the quality copy Patek Philippe Nautilus insofar as the numbers go, the Nomos Glashütte Sport Datum doesn’t seem as thin due to its case being smaller (36.5 mm in diameter) and not as elaborate. Nonetheless, it was my choice for a luxury sports watch, though, arguably, without the luxury price tag.

Finally, we come to what just might be my watch of the year: Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo 100 m satin-polished stainless steel. As the name suggests, this Bulgari is sufficiently water resistant and only 5.25 mm thick. More than thin enough in my book.

So, is it a Nautilus killer? Not really.

Male Replica Patek Philippe Nautilus Watch
Patek Philippe Nautilus or Bulgari Octo Finissimo?

Personally, and in contrast to the Purists/Hodinkee point of view, I feel that a date window is rather apropos on a luxury sports watch (it’s a useful function on a daily wearer) as is a second hand – preferably a central second hand, which is easier to notice.

But most of all, I believe a sports watch ought to be lumed. The Bulgari Octo Finissimo isn’t. No doubt this is in order to preserve the integrity of the design, and I respect that. All of which is to say that, while I likes me some lume, I find the Octo Finissimo compelling enough that it just might be my next purchase.

The presence of lume, a date window, central seconds, and an additional 20 m of water resistance means that I still prefer a Nautilus. But supply, demand, and the market mean that a Patek Philippe Reference 5711 with my name on it will take quite some time.

Giant Patek Philippe Nautilus drawing by Simon Beck on Brean beach in Somerset, England
Giant Patek Philippe Nautilus drawing by Simon Beck on Brean beach in Somerset, England

Nonetheless, I hope that in these few words I have, to some degree, illuminated a few aspects as to why I think Patek Philippe’s Nautilus Reference 5711 is so successful and desirable.

Hands-on Quality Replica TAG Heuer x Fragment Design Calibre Heuer 02 Chronograph

The male fake watch has black dial.

Swiss TAG Heuer replica has been quite productive this year, creating more than one cool limited-edition chronographs. In addition to the two Carrera made for the brand’s 160th anniversary – Silver Edition and Carrera Montreal – the brand also renewed its partnership with designer Hiroshi Fujiwara and his streetwear brand Fragment Design. Following a minimalistic Carrera model in 2018, this year we have a new watch that not only looks brilliant but could also well be a teaser for new permanent motorsport-inspired models. Let’s have a closer look at the TAG Heuer x Fragment Design Chronograph.

TAG HEUER X FRAGMENT DESIGN

Hiroshi Fujiwara is an internationally renowned Japanese streetwear designer, influencer, musician and founder of Fragment Design. He’s also a watch lover and has been working with TAG Heuer since 2018, to create special edition watches infused with its unique sense of design, mixing boldness and minimalism.

The first watch resulting from this collaboration was based on a Carrera, fitted with a minimalistic black dial and discreet connection with the brand Fragment. Not only the watch was stunning in terms of design, but it was also the base for the Silver and Montreal editions to come next. And for 2020, both brands are teaming up again and bring an unprecedented watch, which isn’t based on something existing yet in the permanent collection.

The male fake watch has black dial.
Black Dial Fake TAG Heuer Watch
A NEW TAG HEUER CHRONOGRAPH

Certainly, this new 44mm Automatic Chronograph will feel familiar to Heuer and TAG fans. Arguably, its shape and design are somehow close to both vintage watches or existing models. Yes, the mechanics inside the case aren’t new and have been used in multiple TAGs already. And yes, there’s an undeniable motorsport inspiration in this watch, and that’s not a surprise for a TAG Heuer. However… the combination of all these elements is not something we’ve seen before. This second TAG Heuer x Fragment Design watch is new and not just a different colour on an existing watch. That’s already quite interesting.

The base for this new watch copy TAG Heuer x Fragment Design Chronograph is named the “C-case”, a large and robust tonneau-shaped block of steel that easily refers to 1970s Autavia watches – specifically, the third generation ref. 1163. Indeed, we find here the typical pilot’s case with integrated lugs and highly raised bezel on top of the watch. Almost entirely brushed, the case, as some would have remarked, is also in line with the current Formula 1 watches, yet larger and built with more details (polished bevel on the side) but also more robustness… Maybe you can figure out what’ll be coming in the next month at TAG… This watch could easily become the top-tier extension of the F1 range. The references to the Autavia or the Formula 1 don’t end there.

The bezel’s insert, made of polished ceramic, includes a tachymeter scale with the same graduation (70-66-63) and deep notches as glorious 1970s racing models. The right side of the case features the crown, well-protected with guards, and recessed pushers for the chronograph. The screw-down crown and caseback allow for a comfortable 100m water-resistance.

The male replica watch is equipped with caliber Heuer 02.
Replica TAG Heuer Watch With Caliber Heuer 02

Fujiwara’s touch is particularly visible on the dial of this TAG Heuer x Fragment Design Chronograph, which has been treated in a very minimalistic way – which mostly comes down to the absence of applied hour markers, creating strong negative space on the dial. This bi-compax chronograph plays on monochromatic tone – black and white – only with red accents on the markers and hands. A discreet “Fragment” inscription is found between 4 and 5 o’clock, as well as the two brands’ logos at 12 o’clock.

There’s something really special to this dial, and even though simplistic and flat, it has a great personality. Legibility is also perfect in daylight, while slightly compromised during the night – only the hands feature SLN. The watch is delivered on a new 5-link steel bracelet, with polished and brushed surfaces. As a personal note, I could easily see this watch worn on a 1970s-inspired perforated black leather strap, just to reinforce its classic appeal – and to make it more comfortable too, as the case is quite large and heavy.

Finally, while many of the TAG Heuer Formula 1 watches are powered by quartz chronograph movements, this new perfect fake watch Fragment Design Chronograph relies on the brand’s in-house movement, the Calibre Heuer 02 – an integrated automatic chronograph with column wheel and vertical clutch. The movement is partially visible under a red-tinted sapphire crystal with Fragment’s logo transferred on its surface.

So yes, TAG and Hiroshi Fujiwara have created another very cool limited edition watch. No doubt about it. What’s even more interesting is that it somehow announces what will be the upcoming top-of-the-range Formula 1 Heuer 02 watch. When and how, we don’t know yet, but it will surely come.